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Create a Boutique Window - by Audrey
(April 2006)

    Once again, many thanks to Dee, our fabulous Diorama Diva and also to the DD Mods (Val & Laure, especially) for allowing me to walk you through another Tuesday diorama discussion.

    Have you ever known the kind of child, who, when given an expensive toy, loses interest in the toy itself within hours, but becomes completely fascinated with the box it came in for days on end? I think I was one of those kids. Introducing 'The Ever-Changing Window'. Although it's my own design, it was inspired by the B*rbie vintage Fashion Shop window. You can use it with or without an awing, window panes or "glass". Change the floor, the walls, even the interior shape. It’s lightweight and folds up for easy storage. But perhaps the best part of all is that you can proudly say you made it yourself. (Directions and a materials list are provided near the end of this discussion.)

    Here it is in its first (unpainted) version. Without the awning, it's 14" tall. With the awning, it's 17" tall.

    The interior measurements are 5" deep x 11” wide.

    After thinking about how best to decorate it, I chose to spray paint it with Stone Flecks texture paint in off white. I also added a skirt to the awning.

    Here's an earlier setup of the same display.

    For round 2, I decided to make the window slightly taller to accommodate a Fashion Royalty mannequin (though I didn’t use one in this particular photo). Here's the same display, but with a window frame added.

    If you look closely, the uniformly cut 16-pane window in the first boutique is not really uniform. It was intended to be a 12-pane window, but somehow I over measured, then goofed up again and cut the panes on the right side slightly too large.

    In any case, other than a lot of swearing and eye strain, the window frame was created from a single sheet of 11" x 14" posterboard. I measured and drew lots and lots of lines in pencil, then used an exacto knife and a ruler to cut out each individual window pane (or pain -- with a capital 'P'), until all I was left with was a lacey frame to slide inside the window. Since the precut sheet posterboard is exactly the right size, for that space no fitting was necessary. That was the nosebleed way of doing things. The easier way (discovered after the fact) was to cut strips of thick paper (cardstock) or posterboard into strips with a $20 paper cutter and them glue them into place. Duh. :-) And actually, doing it that way makes the window panes more realistic looking. However, I will always treasure that window. I have to. It nearly killed me. :-D (For a chuckle, see "Alternate Window Pane Creation Directions" at the bottom of this discussion!)

    For version 3, I wanted something different. While experimenting with the styrofoam blocks, I decided a 3" high floor would make a good height for short mannequins. As it turns out, it also works well for the Silkstone mannequin.

    Here's a side view of the trim. I created the upper and lower molding by layering two pieces of pre-cut wood strips. The rectangular panels in between them are 1:12 scale dollhouse shutters turned sideways.

      But windows aren’t just for shop displays. :-) Isn't that little guy cute??? That’s a resin photo frame. Now if I could just find a miniature crate for him to stand on, I’d be in business.

      To make the cafe look more realistic, insert a magazine clipping or a computer printout of the inside of a restaurant. Add a cafe table and 2 chairs out front, and you've got a quaint outdoor scene. To add a name on the "glass" I typed text into Photoshop (you can use any program you like), then printed out the page on plain white 8 ½ x 11” paper. After that, I used a photocopy machine to transfer the image to an 11 x 17 sheet of transparency film. (Those of you who have the capability to print out 11” x 17” size documents from a printer can obviously skip the 2nd half of that step.)

    Tired of seeing it as a window? You can use it as a built in seating nook, too. (Side note: Click on the Doll Divas diorama discussion Making a Window Seat for great window seat directions by Debi.)




    Last but not least, a street scene with potted flowers:

    ON TO THE DIRECTIONS!

    Here's what you'll need to create the basic structure:

    One 11” x 14” Ghostline Tri-Fold Project Board

    Xacto knife

    Ruler

    Pencil

    White tape

    1" thick block of white styrofoam

    1 small hand saw or a large serrated edge knife

    2 small pieces of velcro or 1 velcro strip

    One sheet of 11 x 17 sheet of transparency film (optional)

    1/2" thick foam padding (optional)

    1/4" wide wood strips (optional)

    Open your tri-fold board, then measure and mark your window outline in pencil on the INSIDE (the side without the grid) in the center panel as shown in the photo below:

    Large window: 1" from top, 1 1/4" from bottom, 1/2" each side starting from the innermost crease (the crease that is closest to the center panel).

    Small window: 1" from top, 3 1/4" from bottom, 1/2" each side starting from the innermost crease (the crease that is closest to the center panel).

    Using your ruler as a guide, cut the opening with your Xacto knife.

    Next, mark a straight line 5" from the outermost crease (the crease that is closest to the outside edges of the cardboard) on the two outside panels. (Confusing? Refer to the two dashed lines in the photo mentioned above.) Once again, use your Xacto knife and ruler, but this time, just score the cardboard, don't cut it. (In other words, cut the cardboard lightly, but don’t go all the way through. Scoring a pliable surface like cardboard makes it fold easier and neater.) Fold the scored lines toward the back of the display opening.

    Attach your velcro squares or strip on the very back of the structure to help hold it closed. (Note: you may have to glue them in place if they are pulling away from the cardboard. I put one square at the very top of the opening, and one at the bottom and that was plenty.)

    To make the floor base, mark a 5" x 11" rectangle on top of your styrofoam and cut it with a hand saw or a serrated edge knife. Insert the cut base inside the bottom of the structure and velcro the structure closed around it. Make sure it’s a snug fit. For the shorter window, cut 2 additional styrofoam blocks following the directions above. If you prefer, you can use a hot glue gun to glue the three sections of floor base together, but it's not absolutely necessary.

    Next, cut 4 long strips of white tape and wrap them around the edges of the open window, keeping most of the tape hidden inside the structure. (You can skip this step, but it makes the opening look nicer.)

    To make the opening sturdier and to give it a finished look, glue four 1/4" wood strips around the window, covering the white tape. (You don’t need a saw for that. If they’re thin enough, you can cut them to size with scissors.) Congratulations! You're done with the basic structure. Now you can decorate it to your heart's content. Spray paint it, hand paint it, cover it with brick print fabric, scrapbook paper or contact paper. Stencil it, draw faux bricks or glue on 1:12 scale miniature ones. Adventurous types might want to try gluing on doll house siding or shingles. To decorate the inside, insert a 12" x 12" sheet of scrapbook paper as a back wall, and cut one more piece for the floor. To make a window seat, cut a 5" x 11" piece of foam cushion, wrap it with fabric, pin it in place, (no sewing necessary – I totally cheated and mine looks pretty good), and put it on top of the floor. For "glass", add a sheet of 11 x 17" transparency film. (I used glue dots inside the window to hold mine in place at the top. The floor will hold it in place at the bottom.)

    Additional customization hints:

    • Let your imagination run wild! Decorate the inside with scrapbook paper, human or doll scale wallpaper, gift wrap, fabric, contact paper, magazine clippings, posterboard, you name it! In the photo below, I cut a back wall and a floor out of the same piece of purple posterboard, but left the side walls untouched. Add a valance to the top of the window or lay a wooden dowel across the back of the structure to hang a full length curtain. Move that same dowel to the middle of the structure to suspend objects from the ceiling area.
        In the photo above, I cut a piece of cloud print posterboard, but scored the sides and folded them so that it became one long wrap around wall with a continuous image.

    • Glue metal rulers to a precut 11" x 14" foamcore sheet, slide it down the back of the structure and you have a magnetic back wall.
    • Use a stencil or decals to add ivy or other details to the outside walls.
    • Add a snow covered tree and colored lights during the holidays. Add frost on the window for a chilly winter look.
    • Put on a faux second story with an L-shaped configuration made of foam core or cardboard. (Use a heavy object to keep it in place.) Add a window, a window box, a French door or a railing to give the second story an old world look.
    • Make an optional window frame with wood strips or a paper cutter and sheets of white cardstock.
    • Hand paint, stencil or use adhesive pre-cut lettering to add pizzazz and interest to the "glass" and/or awning.
    • Group buildings together to create a street or courtyard scene. Add the Bratz phone booth for an English twist. - Group two windows around a doorway to create a larger single store front.

    Here's one final picture. I was aiming for a desert at sunset theme:

    This concludes the Create A Boutique Window discussion. Thanks for stopping in. Here’s hoping you found it inspiring and fun. Until next time . . .

    Best Wishes,
    Audrey
    Dubovick

      IMPORTANT: Alternate window pane creation directions

      1.) Stand near wall. Bang head against wall several times until a strong heachache developes.

      2.) Sit down and swear a blue streak due to headache.

      3.) Pick up paper cutter and cardstock.

      4.) Decide project is not worth it. Continue swearing.

      5.) Abandon project.

      6.) Pick up paper cutter again and begin cutting.

      7.) Finish project and smile.

      8.) Pop pain killers. Lots of them.

      9.) Stop swearing.

      See? You can still have all the frustration and only half the work!!! (Sorry, just my sarcastic sense of humor kicking in. I'm so glad someone appreciates my twisted view of life.) :-D

      Hugs,
      Audrey

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